Food is a great link to our memories. We may forget names, places, and the last digit of the PIN of our ATM, but one bite of our favorite dish instantly takes us back, and makes us remember the details of our past like it was yesterday.

Amidst the continuing slew of food concepts opening up in Manila, our memory of food helps keep the spirit of our favorite, but sadly defunct, restaurants alive. I am, no doubt, going to date myself by talking about these restaurants, but I’m glad to list down the places we sorely miss, if only to have the chance to make them alive again, at least in my mind.

1. A&W

A&W has spoiled rootbeer floats for me. They made it perfectly; from the full flavored rootbeer, to the soft serve ice cream that yielded a firm swirl of vanilla, and the frosted mug that kept everything cool. I remember saving up a portion of my high school allowance just to get to this treat back at their branch in Megamall.

It makes me sad whenever I see someone ordering the poor imitation that fast food joints give out these days (no one should be served a float with ice.) I keep hoping that A&W can open up again, even just for the float.

2. Lolo Dad’s

Fine dining in Manila used to be limited to hotels and posh restaurants run by foreign chefs and maître d’s that would raise an eyebrow on guests who looked like they couldn’t foot the bill. Lolo Dad’s challenged this convention by making fine dining more accessible to Filipinos. The proprietors believed that everyone should enjoy good food, and in following the Filipino tradition of sharing their meals, they made the portions very generous. It was a sad day, indeed, when Lolo Dad’s had their last call over a year ago.

3. Botica Boie

There are few who would remember a time in Manila where pharmacies didn’t mean going to Mercury Drug or Watsons. And even fewer would remember a time when several of these pharmacies would also be the best place to get a chocolate ice cream soda. Botica Boie was one of the dispensaries that did just this. My dad tells me of a time when they’d walk from Taft to Escolta just to visit Botica Boie. Time, however, has removed both the Acacia trees that lined Taft and shaded the pedestrians in their stroll to downtown Manila, and the pharmacies that once doubled as ice cream and soda joints.

4. Tivoli and Paseo Uno at The Mandarin Oriental, Makati

I never thought Mandarin Oriental would close its doors. We’d always pass by Makati on the way to my sister’s school, and seeing the big hotel became a part of the trip. Aside from being known as a luxurious place to stay in, the in-house restaurants were famous in the dining scene. The Tivoli, in particular, was a favorite for fine dining. If you had to impress a date, you’d definitely seal the deal here, especially if you got the chocolate bomb for dessert.

For the buffet lovers, Paseo Uno gave a great selection. It was one of the few buffets that cooked your meal on order, ensuring that your food was of the highest quality. With the restructuring of the Makati Central Business District, however, the hotel had to give way last year. The good news is that the Mandarin Oriental is set to re-open five years from now, hopefully with an even better selection of restaurants.

5. The French Corner

Billy King, great in his ability in the kitchen, and maybe even greater in his infamy, was responsible for bringing in many changes in Manila’s food scene in the 90’s. His passion gave rise to Le Soufflé, which has become a legend in fine dining in Manila. King would personally interact with the guests in the restaurant, often entertaining them with his antics.

As with many highly creative people, Billy King also went through a lot of trouble in his personal life which made it difficult to retain good relationships with his business partners. Having parted ways with Le Soufflé, King started The French Corner in Alabang. The joint shined, and continued with the creativity and personal touch of King, often tailor fitting the menu to the diner’s tastes. While The French Corner is now closed, we’d all like to see Billy King ease back in a kitchen in Manila and give us a taste of his creations.

6. Brown Derby Footlong

I asked my folks about the food they missed in their time, and this was one they kept on saying. We may associate the footlong hotdog from Smokey’s, and kids today would probably link it to the buy-one-take-one burger stalls, but Brown Derby was the one that started it all. They had a couple of branches in Taft and in Quezon City, and gave everyone back then a taste of a real hotdog. Even today, there are still several folks who associate the footlong with Brown Derby, and with better times. Times when Manila was a place for Sunday walks and trip to the cinemas, and when the exchange rate was just 2 pesos to the dollar. Great times indeed.

7. Minggoy’s

I was a kid back when we would have lunch at Minggoy’s in Magallanes, and while I have forgotten a lot of the items in the menu, I’d always remember the oysters and the paella. The restaurant was a fixture when it came to Spanish Cuisine, but had to close its doors several years back.

While the restaurants are now long gone, I heard Minggoy’s was starting again, this time having their food for phone order and pick-up. The food may be the same, but it would be nice to be able to sit down in an actual restaurant and re-live all the memories I had back then.

8. Pepato

Pepato, the brainchild of Margarita Fores, was the fine dining version of Cibo. Ms. Fores continued her use of Italian flavors and techniques with Filipino ingredients, to great success. The food was always great in Pepato, whether you were in it for the pasta, or the mains. A bite from each dish would show Ms. Fores insistence that the flavors work together, instead of being masked by off-the-shelf dairy and cheese.
What we’d miss most, aside from the food, were the interiors of Pepato. The spiral staircase, large chandeliers, and even the wall patterns made diners feel like they were living the life of luxury. We’ll still enjoy the flavors Ms. Fores brings in her other restaurants, but Pepato will always have a place in our hearts.

9. Tequila Joe’s

What would memories of growing up be without all those nights of underage drinking and getting the feeling of your first hangover, a lot of which was probably caused by Tequila Joe’s. (We don’t condone underage drinking, though. Stick to the soda, kids.)

Tequila Joe’s was a great place for a Friday night out (which wasn’t complete without getting that huge platter of nachos.) With the teenage icon, Rico Yan, as part owner, the bar drew in a steady stream of thirsty and hungry customers. Tequila Joe’s still enjoyed a good run to the early 2000’s, but faded into the background amidst the onslaught of new bars that opened up.

Do you miss any of these restaurants? What are the joints you wish would open up again? Let us know in the comments below!

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